San Blas

The San Blas Islands and a strip of coastal mountains form the autonomous territory of Kuna Yala . After years of persecution by the Panamanians, in 1925, the Indians of this area rebelled violently. America, presumably embarrassed by their treatment of their own indigenous peoples, intervened before military retribution by the Panamanians could escalate the problem. The result is the Comarca de Kuna Yala, a completely different world within Panama.

Alga and Ferloguen anchored near the island of Suletupu in the region of Caledonia. You could indeed almost imagine yourself on the West coast of Scotland. Of course it was named by the Scottish settlers of the ill-fated Darien expedition, the ruins of whose fort St. Andrew are still visible at Punta Escosces.

We couldn't make out what this deputation wanted. Later we discovered that it was empty beer cans of which we had rather a large number.	This was our first experience of a Kuna village. They pack themselves very tightly onto one or two islands, leaving all the other ones free for coconut plantations, coconuts being one of the mainstays of the Kuna economy.

Before we could go ashore to see the village of Kanirdup, the suhili (one of the chief's deputies ) came with a list of rules and to fix a set time for the visit. They are trying to keep life as traditional as possible so they keep a tight control on visitors. There are no roads in most of Kuna Yala so any visitors come by water even to mainland settlements.	Gail is only 5ft tall and this Kuna lady makes her look like a giant. We had to get permission to photograph anyone and you can see from the way she is standing that this lady is a bit self-conscious. This is a pity because her arms are obscuring her mola which is the embroidered panel on the front and back of her blouse. Her decorative beadwork on arms and legs shows clearly however.

When the Spanish first arrived here they spent a lot of time trying to get the 'naked savages' to wear clothes. When they finally succeeded, the women translated the intricate designs from their bodies to beadwork and embroidery. Typically of course, having 'civilised' the natives into wearing clothes, yachties generally turn up in a state of undress that would have the average conquistador sending for the holy office!	Further up the islands, where there are more tourists ( even cruise ships!) ) the molas have become very simplistic, made for a quick sale. At the eastern end of the islands where few outsiders go, new, many-layered and intricate ones are made new for special festivals and afterwards become everyday wear.. The Molas are made using a reverse appliqué technique where layers are cut away to reveal the fabrics underneath. As you can see here, the front and back panels should show related images.

Whole families go out fishing in these ulus and what a wonderful use for an old bed sheet. We saw this one at Ustupu, one of the more modern islands. One of the signs of modernity is an appalling amount of rubbish in the water. Before the advent of plastic, everything that was discarded floated away and rotted or was eaten by fish. So much for civilisation!	Some modern things creep into the most traditional village and not all the Ulus are entirely wind and paddle powered. Villages even have telephones although, as we discovered later, the phones can only be used to call within Panama.

Sunday morning on the island of Pinos, another way of fishing.	and for a change of diet, pork. Huts hanging out over the water are usually the village latrines. Here they make very efficient pigsties.

Apart from the hand sewn molas, the women do use some technology although the maintenance leaves a bit to be desired!	Oh dear! This was Foss' universal effect on Kuna babies. It was explained to us that Kuna mothers frighten their children into good behaviour by the threat of the pink giants who will come and kill them. Historically of course this was only too real a danger.

Back to life on Alga and Christophe appears to have moved on board as he now has his feet under the table and is preparing fish Tahitian style.	But at least we have acquired our own French chef who is trying hard here to convince us, and Gail in particular, that octopus is edible.

Not only does he cook the sea food but he catches it as well	And convinces Gail, a lapsed vegetarian, to eat it.

If by some chance Chris couldn't catch enough crabs, we could always ask a Kuna	The Kuna go round their islands regularly harvesting coconuts and tending to the trees and doing a spot of fishing on the way of course.

Christmas dinner at Green Island, only I don't think we are entirely sober.	And even less sober by New Year and ready to annoy the anchorage at Lemon Cays with our now traditional Auld Lang Syne duet.
THIS WAS OUR FAREWELL TO KUNA YALA